I had it all planned, my menu that is. I was going to grill a whole beef tenderloin (indirectly, over charcoal, of course) and serve it with potato gratin and a show stopper salad that included bacon brittle and blue cheese ice cream. It was for a group of friends who love food and eating, and I love cooking for them.
Then I read a recipe in the NY Times for Bo Ssam and my plans changed completely. Bo Ssam is a Korean dish that takes about 24 hours in preparation and cooking time (which is what I found so intriguing about the recipe). Using a dry brine, overnight in the fridge, a whole pork butt (bone-in), bathes in it’s own extracted juices, then gets a rinse off and pat down and is very gently roasted in the oven for 7 hours. At the last moment, the oven temp is cranked to 500F and the pork roast is slathered in brown sugar and a wee bit of salt. Placed back in the oven it roasts for mere minutes until the sugar caramelizes, creating the mutha of all savory-candy shells.
What comes to the table is nothing short of awe-inspiring. The whole, lacquered, roast is placed in the middle of the table along side kimchi (Korean, fermented vegetables) an assortment of sauces, and some steamed sticky rice. Everyone digs in with their own forks, filling Bibb lettuce cups with the most amazingly tender pork, a spoon of gingery-scalliony sauce and kimchi. And then it all goes quiet.
I’ve made very few adjustments to the original, NY Times recipe- here it is– so worth the effort and time and such a great meal to serve for friends.
1 pork butt or shoulder, bone in, 7-8 pounds
1 cup kosher, flake salt
1 cup tables sugar
1 bottle beer
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon kosher flake salt
Kimchi (find it jarred in Asian and gourmet markets)
Scallion/ginger sauce (recipe below)
1) Place pork in a large bowl. Combine the salt and sugar together and rub this all over the pork. Cover and refrigerate over night (8-24 hours).
2) Pre-heat oven to 300F. Remove the pork form it’s brine and rinse. Pat dry with paper towels. Place into a large Dutch oven, or a deep baking dish with a lid (or use foil to cover), fat side up. Cover and roast for 2 hours then, add the bottle of beer. Cover and continue to braise for 4-5 hours, until the meat is falling off the bone. If it cooks quicker, that’s okay, simply shut off the oven– it can hold this way for up to 2 hours.
3) 15-20 minutes before serving, turn the oven up to 500F. Line a sided baking tray with foil. Carefully transfer the roast from the braising pan to the tray (use 2 large spatulas to do this). Pat the brown sugar and salt over the roast, place back into the oven uncovered and sear until the sugar melts completely. Be aware, the sugar may smoke as the temp is so high.
4) Remove form the oven, place pork on a platter and serve at once with lots of Bibb lettuce cups, kimchi, scallion/ginger sauce, Sriracha sauce (for spice) and sticky rice.
Scallion/ginger sauce:
1 bunch scallions (green onions), sliced thin (including all the green part)
1, 3″ long piece ginger, peeled and minved fine
1-2 teaspoon sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon good quality soy sauce
2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Mix everything together and hold at room temperature for up to 6 hours.
